Rocca Gialeo (Alpine and Multipitch Routes)
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This mountain is very characteristic for its south-eastern slope, clearly visible from the Cuneo plain, as it looks like an impressive rampart of reddish rock 300 m high and completely vertical, on which about ten respectable mountaineering routes have been traced, but which due to the long approach has always remained little frequented (also accomplice to the difficulty of finding detailed info).
In any case, it deserves to be mentioned because it is definitely the wildest place in the Maira Valley to practice old-style mountaineering (although today with “friends” the approach has changed a lot).
Good quality quartzitic rock and often athletic climbing styles on vertical walls and dihedrals and small overhangs.
The routes are almost all to be equipped or supplement the (few) existing pitons. Of note is a challenging new route that has bolted belays.
About 30 minutes from the wall there is a beautiful bivouac (Elio Bonfante) that can be a convenient foothold for a two-day climbing trip, given also its proximity to the crag of the same name. In this corner of paradise, the environmental context is amazing because we are inside an ancient glacial basin, surrounded by Mount Chersogno, Mount Camoscere and Rocca la Marchisa, all peaks over 3,000 meters. Unfortunately, Rocca Gialeo cannot boast this milestone by only 4 meters; in fact, the reported elevation is 2996 mt.
The approach can be done a two ways: either from Colle della Bicocca (check the accessibility of the dirt road section starting from the Sampeyre pass) with about 1.30/2 hours of walking, or from Campiglione di Prazzo with about 3 hours of walking.
Recommended period: summer.
Below you will find a selection of proposed routes:
https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/gialeo-rocca-via-col-vento/
https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/gialeo-rocca-banana-joe/#main
Information
- Region: Prazzo
- Season: Summer
- Difficulty: Hard
Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities and must be undertaken with the right equipment and preparation. We invite you to consult the weather and avalanche bulletin before embarking on an excursion and/or contact a guide for assistance. The Valle Maira Tourist Consortium declines any responsibility in relation to the advice and itineraries shown here, which must be evaluated personally according to the weather conditions and snow cover.