A demanding route that crosses the very vertical east face of Punta Figari on very compact rock. A route born in a time when climbers pushed for higher difficulty using pitons and also new mobile protections like nuts. This route, opened without friends, has since been revised but retains its original character and requires commitment. Among the first ascensionists is Guido Ghigo, who opened 28 new routes in the Castello-Provenzale Group alone.

• Difficulty: ED
• Max grade: 6c/6c+
• Mandatory grade: 6a+
• Length: 185 m
• Time: 4 hours
• First ascent: Paolo Cavallo, Guido Ghigo, and Massimo Piras on August 2, 1988

Gear: Quickdraws, 60 m ropes, a set of friends up to BD #2 and/or nuts. Hammer recommended to reinforce existing pitons.

Approach: Same as for the “Spigolo Castiglioni” The wall is located between Rocca Provenzale and Torre Castello. The route is on the right when facing Figari’s wall and starts at the base of a large arched dihedral topped by a roof, a few meters left of the “Superfigari” route.

Google Maps link to parking

L1: Climb the reddish wall to the right of the large dihedral until you reach the point to traverse left and mantle over into the main wall, continue straight to belay (6b 30 m)
L2: Climb the reddish dihedral to a large undercling flake. Traverse left on slab, then straight to belay (6a+ 25 m)
L3: Climb the reddish dihedral and pass the overhang on the left (watch out for a detached block), then continue straight up a faint dihedral until you cross the “Superfigari” route. From there, follow it by traversing left for a few meters to the belay in a reddish niche. (6b+ 40 m)
L4: Above the belay for a few meters and mantle right. Then follow a beautiful crack climbing diagonally right (small tree). Belay at the base of a reddish dihedral shared with the “Serpente Rosa” route (6a+ 35 m)
L5: Traverse left on slab to the base of a reddish, lichen-covered dihedral. Climb it and overcome the overhanging band by mantling leftward; continue for a few meters to belay (6c/6c+ 25 m)
L6: Continue with no set path to the summit ridge (IV 30 m)

Descent: From the route’s end, rappel down the opposite side (45 m west) to a ledge that leads on foot to the notch between Punta Figari and Torre Castello. From there, rappel the Camino Est (2×30 m and 1×60 m) to reach the wall base.