Climbing

Provenzale-Castello Group (Alpine and Multipitch Routes)

Provenzale-Castello Group (Alpine and Multipitch Routes)

It is so called because it groups the three main peaks of mountaineering interest, although geologically speaking it is the same large monolith that from Chiappera can be seen as an immense fin planted in the ground, and behind it stands out with two large towers. So we are talking about Rocca Provenzale (2451 mt.), Torre Castello (2468 mt.) and Rocca Castello (2452 mt.), but to be fair we must also mention Punta Figari (2345 mt.), which with its vertical east wall almost acts as a “separé.”

The environmental context is fabulous, we are on the head of the valley inside a large former glacial basin, and the Castello-Provenzale Group is in the middle of it all. We can only imagine the views we will be lucky enough to observe.
On this set of walls has been written the history of mountaineering in the Maira Valley, which began in the early 1900s.
Over time this site became known beyond the Alps as well, thanks to the opening of numerous mountaineering routes by strong climbers, and today it is a reference point for climbing in the Occitan valleys.

The rock is a highly worked quartzite with many cracks, although there is no shortage of compact slabs and athletic overhangs.
The climbing style is very varied, from slabs to vertical walls, continuous cracks and overhangs, with a total of more than 100 routes present.
Most of the routes are mountaineering in nature, to be protected or supplemented, but in recent years a few modern multipitches have begun to appear, and lately there has been a process of re-bridging/revising of many routes by the openers themselves and other willing local climbers.
Exposure of the walls is varied, although most routes ply the east faces of the entire group. Recommended period definitely summer, but also in the mid-seasons with nice windless days.

Access can be made in two ways: passed the village of Chiappera and left on the left the road that leads to the Rifugio Campo Base (by the way, excellent support point) continue passing 2 hairpin bends. Shortly after on the right there is a first parking lot (from which the path with indications starts), recommended for those who want to climb Rocca Provenzale, the east face of Figari and Torre Castello (20 minutes to 1.30 hours depending on the route chosen).
On the other hand, for Rocca Castello it is advisable to continue by car for a few km (dirt road) until you park just before the hairpin bends near some ruins on your right. Take a little further on a path that goes up to the Russet granges. From there follow the marked path to the Greguri pass, Once at the pass you will be in the presence of the Rocca Castello with a view that amply repays the approach (about 1 hour).

 

Given the large number of routes and styles of equipment of them, we offer here a small selection to give an idea of the place:

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/castello-rocca-sete-doriente-diedro-calcagno-variante-savio/  

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/castello-rocca-king-line/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/castello-rocca-via-sigismondi/  

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/figari-punta-overfigari/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/figari-punta-genovesi-est/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/figari-punta-via-cioia/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/provenzale-rocca-danza-provenzale/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/provenzale-rocca-via-bonino-perino-girodo/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/provenzale-rocca-via-dei-lamponi/ 

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/provenzale-rocca-via-motti/ 

https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/new/relazioni-multipitch/  

 

Bibliography: “Valle Maira – rock climbing guidebook” (Luca de Giorgi e Renato Botte)

Information

  • Region: Acceglio
  • Season: Summer
  • Difficulty: Hard

Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities and must be undertaken with the right equipment and preparation. We invite you to consult the weather and avalanche bulletin before embarking on an excursion and/or contact a guide for assistance. The Valle Maira Tourist Consortium declines any responsibility in relation to the advice and itineraries shown here, which must be evaluated personally according to the weather conditions and snow cover.