The Camoglieres site, named after the hamlet, is a set of crags nestled in a beautiful, scenic, sunny and quiet little valley. South and southeast exposure and altitude of 1100 m. Here you climb on good gray/white limestone, often on notches and holes where technique is the master, although there is no shortage of more athletic routes.

Going up the Maira valley, shortly after the village of Lottulo, turn right and continue to climb in short order to the hamlet of Camoglieres where you can park near the Locanda del Silenzio.
We can choose between 4 sectors: the Classic (or Historic), which can be reached by following the Sentiero dei Ciclamini (Cyclamen Path) for about ten minutes; the Ferrata sector, which is located right at the base of it (5 minutes from the hamlet); the “Parete delle Farfalle” (Butterfly Wall), a few minutes to the left of the previous one (rock not always good); and finally the “Cappellaio Matto” (Mad Hatter) sector, small but interesting, located higher up, which can be reached in about 20 minutes of steep trail (the sector is found by leaving the path on the left to follow a short track).

The Camoglieres area is ideal in mid-season but also on fine winter days, being a decidedly sheltered and warm place. Not recommended on hot summer days. Good bolting and grades ranging from 4 to 7c for a total of about 70 pitches. Also worth mentioning is the presence of some multipitch routes with bolts, 3 to 5 pitches that are closer to the Ferrata and Mad Hatter sectors: to name one… “La crota dal Rancin”.

Photos courtesy of Livio Belliardo, hiking guide

Useful links:

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/camoglieres-cappellaio-matto-locanda-del-silenzio/

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/camoglieres-falesia/

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/camoglieres-la-crota-dal-rancin/

https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/relazioni/falesie/camoglieres.pdf

Bibliography: “Valle Maira – rock climbing guidebook” (Renato Botte e Luca de Giorgi)