Modern sport route with bolts, still requiring commitment due to the distance between protections. Fantastic rock for most of the climb, alternating with some looser sections where more attention is needed. Highlights include the vertical slab of L4, the wall on L6, and the dihedral on L7. A long and rewarding climb that tops out directly on the summit, offering exceptional views over the Gardetta plateau. This was the first time the three guides joined forces to open a rock route.

• Difficulty: ED
• Mandatory grade: 6b+
• Max grade: 7a
• Bolting: RS2+
• Length: 360 m
• Time: 6 hours
• First ascent: Cesare “Cege” Ravaschietto, Elisabetta Caserini, Ezio Marlier on August 31, 2008

Gear: Quickdraws and 60 m ropes, a few friends up to BD 1.5. The route is equipped with stainless steel 10 mm bolts, belays have two bolts with slings (not all connected).

Start: To reach Rocca la Meja, climb from Valle Stura (via Colle di Valcavera) or from Valle Grana (via Colle Fauniera) and park at Colle della Bandia. From there, a short walk to Colle d’Ancoccia, where the approach to the faces becomes visible (30 min).
Alternatively, from Valle Maira (check summer road closures), drive to Colle del Preit. Just before the pass, park on the left. On foot, take the trail climbing and skirting the southwest slopes to the base of the scree where the normal route starts (1.5 hours).
The route starts in the center of the lower slab, in a zone of grey slabs with steps. A bolt with a visible pink sling marks the start.

Google Maps link to parking (Colle della Bandia)

Google Maps link to parking (Colle del Preit)

L1: Wall with steps and slabs (6b 55 m)
L2: Climb overhanging wall and the following slab, belay on a bolt (6a+ 40 m)
Transfer: Head towards the pink-slinged bolt on the wall above
L3: Wall with flakes and dihedrals (5c 35 m)
L4: Climb the superb slab with intrusions, then the sculpted yellow wall (6c 40 m)
L5: Straight following the ridge, then traverse left to reach a niche at the base of the upper wall (4c 40 m)
L6: Technical wall with a bouldery move to pass a short overhang; continue left in the dihedral to the belay. Excellent rock. (microfriend useful on the overhang) (7a 45 m)
L7: Climb the cracked dihedral, then the beautiful abrasive slab on a slight rightward traverse to a belay with one bolt and one piton (6b+ 45 m)
L8: Featured slab heading right, over a bulging overhang (easier on the left), belay on a ledge (bolt + thread) (6b+ 25 m)
L9: Series of dihedrals and walls with flaked rock. Belay on a thread or continue to the “Eterni Peter Pan” exit belay (5b 40 m)

Descent: Via the normal route.