Climbing

Russet Crag (Chiappera)

Russet Crag (Chiappera)

Sunny and panoramic crag located in a majestic, high mountain setting, in the presence of the great walls of the Castello-Provenzale Group. Here we climb on excellent worked quartzite that offers various styles of climbing with prevalence of athletic pitches on vertical walls for the more difficult routes, while we find more leaning and worked areas on the easier pitches.
Comfortable base and not excessive approach (20/30 minutes) make it a great place to spend a pleasant day of sport even with the family.

Southern exposure and altitude of 2000 mt., ideal in summer (no shade…bring sunscreen) but also in mid-season.
Recent bolting and two adjacent sectors make it a site with 31 pitches, from grade 4 to 8a+ (?).

Access: along the dirt road from Chiappera to Grange Russet, park just before the switchbacks near some ruins on your right. Take a little further on a trail that climbs to the grange. From there follow the trail to the Greguri pass and after a few minutes leave the trail to take some meadows on the right that lead to a hump with a related saddle. You will then find yourself “behind” the cliff. Descend from the saddle and shortly to the base of the right sector. Important note: There is almost always an active spring of very good water at the base of the crag.

WARNING: Recently someone removed the first bolts on some pitches, which are currently not climbable. It is hoped that the affected routes will be restored soon.

 

Useful links:

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/russet-falesia-del/ 

https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/relazioni/falesie/russet.pdf 

https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/new/2025/01/08/chiappera-falesia-del-rousset-settore-basso/ 

https://27crags.com/crags/russet/description 

Bibliography: “Valle Maira – rock climbing guidebook” (Renato Botte and Luca de Giorgi) 

Information

  • Region: Acceglio
  • Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Summer
  • Difficulty: Easy, Family-friendly, Hard, Medium Difficulty

Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities and must be undertaken with the right equipment and preparation. We invite you to consult the weather and avalanche bulletin before embarking on an excursion and/or contact a guide for assistance. The Valle Maira Tourist Consortium declines any responsibility in relation to the advice and itineraries shown here, which must be evaluated personally according to the weather conditions and snow cover.